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FBBLR Redesign, 56kers beware

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Author Topic: FBBLR Redesign, 56kers beware  (Read 306 times)
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« on: March 15, 2007, 09:55:06 pm »

I came up with a better idea. It's late, so I'm just going to post the pictures. I will add explanations later. I would

appreciate it if you didn't post here until I finish. Thanks in advance.

If you're reading this Younggunner, thanks for inadvertently introducing me to Google SketchUp
(for those who don't know, Google SketchUp is a free 3D modeling program)

Here's an overview of the entire rifle. Note that all of these pictures are "barebone" : only the basic, functional

parts. For example, the brass barrel will be covered by PVC, and must (somehow) be held in place in relation to

everything else. For that matter, the trigger system and lever need to be mounted, too (again: somehow).

Here's a view of the plunger chamber from the rear. It has one of those screw-in...things on the back (maybe called a

cleanout) for easy access to the plunger. I actually have a plunger chamber already built, but it's too long to have the

trigger in front of the's currently over 1.5' if memory serves, with a 5 or 5.5" draw on the plunger.

Oh, yeah...and that's 2" diameter PVC. Now that's air volume!

Here's a picture of the tigger plate. It's just like the SCAR-N. Not much else to see here...

Here's a closeup of the barrel, which will be all brass, covered in PVC for support. The barrel itself is nested brass:

17/32" to 9/16" to 19/32" (As you can see in the down-the-barrel picture, next). In order to make a barrel over 12",

these will only overlap a little. I'm going to make a MS Paint diagram later to explain the barrel completely.

The front of the plunger chamber is a 2" -> 1/2" PVC bushing. I will use a short piece of 1/2" PVC to connect a 1/2" 90

degree bend to it.

Here's where it really gets awesome. The first 90 degree bend will have a piece of 19/32" brass glued into it. A second

bend will have 9/16" brass glued in it. These brass pieces will then allow the second bend to move up and down.

The second bend, which is actually the "falling block" will also have a bit of nested brass in the other end: 1/2" in

17/32" in 9/16," which allows it to slip over and go into the barrel's breech (which is 17/32" brass)

Here's a piture of the barrel's breech. You can see the lip of 17/32" brass that the falling block's nested brass will

slip into.

The wide, silvery bar that you see is the lever that will raise and lower the falling block. Not much explanation needed,

I think.

In order to help ensure precise allignment of the block and breech, I will use elevation-restrictors. The piece of PVC on

the top of the breech and/or the plate on the bottom of the block will limit how far the breech can move upward.

I just realized this picture is a bit messed up from the paint-editing. I'll fix it later.

Anyway...Here is a detail of the trigger system. The trigger doesn't just release the plunger; it also pulls the 17/32"

breech backward in order to seal with the block. The thin bar connects the trigger to the breech, which slides freely.

In all, the steps to fire are like so:

1. Open the breech (lower the block) by pushing down the lever
2. Load a stefan
3. Raise the lever to raise block and close the breech (magnets will probably be used to keep it up).
4. Cock the rifle via slide on top of the plunger chamber (couldn't model the slide, by the way).
5A. Starting the trigger pull will pull back the 17/32" breech in order to create a seal
5B. Completing the trigger pull will fire the rifle.
6. Enjoy the ownage...nay, pwnage.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2007, 10:31:01 pm by jwasko » Report Spam   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2007, 02:31:31 pm »

Its bloody amazing.
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2007, 04:42:05 pm »

The page is still loading for me...But the drawings are sweet! shocked

Good luck making this thing!
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« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2007, 10:42:20 pm »

I finally wrote (most) of the explanation!

Hey, I told you not to post until I had written the explanation.  angry  I ban all of you!

Just kidding!  cheesy  I just wanted to avoid lots of questions being asked that would have been answered in the writeup. Now that I've done one, fire away! (I meant questions, not Nerf guns! Ow!)

Also, any suggestions and comments about something other than its awesomeness would be appreciated. I especially need help figuring out how to attach the barrel to the plunger chamber. I don't want to glue it, because I want to be able to take it off for repairs if needed.

I also need suggestions of what to attach the trigger, lever, etc to. I was thinking of basswood (thin like balsa, but much stronger), but I'd like to use metal for extreme durability. Anyone have ideas of what to use?

Oh, and thanks for the good comments. Sorry, Mega. I know this must be rough with dial up. I share your pain (at home, on weekends, anyway).

Good luck making this thing!
Thanks (*dramatic pause*) I'll need it...(*cue dramatic music, or a drum roll if at end of episode*)
« Last Edit: March 22, 2007, 10:46:31 pm by jwasko » Report Spam   Logged
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« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2007, 07:49:45 pm »

I looks like a pig gun on steroids.  A pig gun is a smaller potato gun that fires rifled foam bodied slug with a polymer on the back that expands under pressure to get perfect seal, starts in 2in and up.
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