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Aguineapig
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« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2007, 08:35:16 am »

Um, something tells me that would be a tad heavy to lug around the field.
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General Cole
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« Reply #16 on: November 13, 2007, 08:17:02 pm »

Not if you are buff, or have a high endurance.  But down here we are strictly one primary and one secondary per person, so having a primary that large is helpful.
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Aguineapig
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« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2007, 08:18:36 pm »

Yeah, I would never allow that in my war, its frickin' cheap.. afro
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General Cole
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« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2007, 08:26:58 pm »

Just because the 223 barrels are a little much....
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Aguineapig
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« Reply #19 on: November 13, 2007, 09:56:35 pm »

Yeah, i think your stretchin' it a bit with 223 barrels..
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General Cole
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« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2007, 06:10:51 pm »

10 RF20 magazines, that 200 out of the 223 barrels right there. And with a 1000 shot tank, its no problem.
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Aguineapig
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« Reply #21 on: November 14, 2007, 06:41:23 pm »

How the heck does that work?

WRITE UP.
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General Cole
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« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2007, 10:27:12 pm »

Its not done yet, I don't even have the SMDTGs yet.
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jwasko
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« Reply #23 on: November 14, 2007, 11:28:36 pm »

Speaking of SMDTGs, here's my idea for a firing-pin-mod for a Ratchetblast. Note: It's related because it can be used to fire 4 SMDTGs (one at a time), by the way.

Quote from: Jwasko
On Monday night, I was lying in bed, trying but failing to go to sleep. As they invariably do nowadays, my thoughts turned to Nerf:

I had been tossing around the idea of placing a pair of SMDTGs on a Mav rotating mechanism, but almost immediately realized the problem that airlines cause when dealing with rotation. In order to avoid that, the "detonator"-style trigger would have to move around with the barrels/air chambers...which would then make it nearly impossible to use a fixed-trigger type of thing. But then, on Monday night, I suddenly thought about the Ratchetblast: it has a turret that doesn't turn.

So, getting to the mod/integration: It will be a Ratchetblast with four (yeah, that's right, four) SMDTGs clustered around it. The SMDTG triggers would actually be placed in the Ratchetblast barrels (with some modification to those barrels, of course).

Think that's crazy? Take a look at the plans for the internal modification:

I call it my "Firing-Pin Mod." Why? Well, can you see that brown piece at the end of the plunger chamber there? When the (slightly modified) plunger moves forward, it pushes against a block (the brown piece) which then pushes the pin out of the plunger chamber and into one of the Ratchetblast's barrels.

There, the firing pin pushes the SMDTG trigger all the way in and launches all three barrels of one of the SMDTGs. Recocking the Ratchetblast as normal allows a spring to pull the firing pin back, and the rotation of the plunger chamber will align the firing pin with the next SMDTG trigger.

Additional modifications to this thing would of course be to attach all of the SMDTGs to one (fair-sized) pump, or a backpack air tank. The net effect of all of the aforementioned mods will be to turn the Ratchetblast into a blaster capable of delivering four, (fairly) rapid-fire shotgun-like bursts. A benefit is that you shouldn't need to replace the spring. And, I don't know about you guys, but somehow I always thought of the thing being a shotgun.

As a little side note, I'm working on another idea that uses the same firing-pin Ratchetblast mod but (instead of one or more of the SMDTGs) it will integrate a homemade that utilizes a valve similar to what 3DBBQ used here

And here is a diagram of the firing sequence, which details the air system.



See the Ratchetblast thread on NH for more info as the idea develops. I'll post a writeup when it's finished, but first I need to get materials to start (including time).


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General Cole
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« Reply #24 on: November 14, 2007, 11:56:32 pm »

Looks very complicated,  I would be happy with getting them to fire and prime them as you fire them.
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jwasko
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« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2007, 09:04:25 am »

Looks very complicated...

I assume that you're talking about the air system, and not the firing-pin mod itself. If so, I don't think it's really all that complicated -- although I suppose it may look like it is.

All I really have to do is cut the plunger off the SMDTG trigger cylinders and then connect the remaining tubing from each together. Once that's done, all that is left is to hook up a new, large pump or a backpack air tank.

...I would be happy with getting them to fire and prime them as you fire them.

I wouldn't be, because then I would need to have to cock the RB and pump an SMDTG ~18 times for each shot. Plus, I'm going to have enough trouble just mounting 4 SMDTGs (without their pumps) on there, let alone 4 SMDTGs and all their puny pumps. I mean, seriously, they have about as big an inner diameter as a pencil...

Now, with a backpack tank I'd only need to push a button and wait a second for the SMDTG air chambers to fill. Or, with a medium-sized pump I'd probably only need 18 (or even fewer) pumps to fill all four SMDTGs.

Not to mention, I want to be able to go: *chi-che, pop, chi-che, pop,* etc.  grin

(Note: *chi-che* = sound of cocking an RB, and *pop* = sound of an SMDTG firing)
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General Cole
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« Reply #26 on: November 15, 2007, 10:22:33 pm »

I would attach them to an airtank in the stock, and I think it would be simpler to have them all on constant pressure so once it fires it refills the tanks.
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nerfingnoob
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« Reply #27 on: November 20, 2007, 07:12:38 pm »

BEWARE: 56kers FOLLOW THIS LINK, HUGE PHOTOS DUE TO A MESSED UP PHOTOBUCKET
http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u162/Nerfingnoob/

Here it comes! Fear Deutschland's Artillery! The PANZERHAUBITZE 2000!
Its been my dream to make a Nerf artillery gun that can be used for more than lobbing shots in the air hopefully hitting someone. So, I combined my dream, with my other love, Germany! The Panzerhaubitze 2000 is an actually artillery gun used by the German Army today with a great ROF. Google it. Anyways, here it comes. I still need some help on it.

The barrels and firing part.


Another


Airtank (4" PVC) with endcap and a sweet coupler/reducer combination I found at Lowes.


Picture of the coupler/reducer


The entire thing (very saggy and ugly without a bi/tripod. I PLAN TO CUT THE LONG 2"PVC WAY DOWN DON'T WORRY


PROBLEMS:
Alright, I came back from Lowes very happy, until I put it together. The 2" PVC coupler wont stay attached to the 2"--1/2" brushing or to the 2" PVC. Also, the 2" PVC wont stay attached at all the the reducer/coupler. It is the right size but my dad said I probably need a gasket and some PVC cement... Anyone else have ideas? I hope to get a valve tomorrow for the bike pump so it will be working. And I doubt the darts will shred to bits because I plan on adding multiple barrels.


*The other barrels attached to the 90degree couplers are adjustable. As in you can slant them up or down depending on the range of the victim.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2007, 07:15:30 pm by nerfingnoob » Report Spam   Logged
General Cole
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« Reply #28 on: November 20, 2007, 07:49:15 pm »

I do believe that the 3/4in section is a little long. If it is shorter, you won't lose as much pressure before the barrel setup is reached.  And you should cement the whole thing so that it wont explode/come apart on you.  But other than that, GOOD JOB!
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jwasko
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« Reply #29 on: November 20, 2007, 08:00:02 pm »

It looks pretty good so far, but...

If you hope to hold pressure, you definitely need both PVC primer (I think it's called primer...in any case, it basically cleans off the PVC really well) and PVC cement. You clean the PVC with the primer first, and then put cement on both surfaces of whatever you are putting together (say, the inside of a coupler and the outside of a piece of PVC pipe). Then, as you slip the two together, twist them in order to the coat the entire surface well and thus ensure an air-tight seal.

Make sure you do this outside, and wear gloves and old clothes!

Also, when you're done, be sure to close the primer and cement tightly (maybe even use a pair of large pliers)...the primer and cement evaporate readily.

Note: I would leave everything "in front" of the ball valve (i.e., the barrel assembly) un-cemented (for now, at least).  But, everything from the ball valve to the 4" endcap must be cemented together. Of course, you'll need to install the tire valve  before you do that.

Keep up the good work; you're almost done!

Edit: Gen. Cole beat me, but...eh, whatever.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2007, 08:03:32 pm by jwasko » Report Spam   Logged

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